“Call me Ishmael,” he said, sticking out his hand for me to shake. Actually he said, “Je m’appelle IsmaÏl,” which is virtually the same thing without the literary allusion. Our new landlord is often visible when we stop by with another load of cases or kitchen items. He goes out of his way to be helpful, asserting that we’re family now. “You can use my car now, and I’ll use yours later, when you get one,” he jokes, elbowing Donn in the ribs. We laugh, a bit nervously. He planted small red lilies and white freesias and geranium and verveine in all the boxes round our second floor home.
He tells us of a new store in town, Carrefour, the first Carrefour in Morocco, and generously offers to take us there, since taxis don‘t run out that far. We used to shop at Carrefour in France and now occasionally in Spain; it is a sort of a Target with grocery store, like a Fred Meyer for all you Oregonians out there. We were all excited when they opened last week in Salé, Rabat’s sister city just across the river, but soon heard wild tales of the hordes going to check it out. A friend tried to go on a Saturday morning at 9:30 and couldn’t get near the front door; there were riot police in full gear with dogs, and barriers helping form people into a haphazard line. Another friend told me of ambulances standing by to help people who fainted in the crush and excitement. The reason for all this anticipation? IsmaÏl wove stories for us; a free TV if you buy a fridge, any third item free if you buy two, a car on offer. Wow. No wonder the crowds were fierce.
Ismail loaded Donn, Ilsa and I into his car last Thursday and we set off for Salé, we brave, we intrepid few, the first of our circle of friends to venture inside. But when we got there, it was no worse than the Target at Washington Square in December–busy, yes, even packed, but the police looked bored. People had a hard time figuring out the barrier system, but soon we were inside.
It was very nice and new and big and a wee bit disappointing, since I was all about getting a free TV but the salesman laughed when we asked him about it. We looked around a bit but found that Carrefour in Morocco is a lot like other stores in Morocco, rather than being a tiny bit of France.
Afterwards, IsmaÏ took us on a little tour. “You’ve never been to the Tour de Hassan?” he asked in shock. “But you must see it!” A storm was blowing in from the sea, and the temperature had dropped nearly 20 degrees in about an hour. We wandered round, shivering in short sleeves, admiring the beautiful mausoleum and the guards on horseback in their colorful uniforms. Neither of us had cameras with us.
***
Today it’s a week later. The storm has stayed with us, and it’s cold and grey and wet. The rain gusts against the windows in sheets; sudden downpours show how well constructed our new house is.
We are in the process of getting settled. I’m sitting on a mattress on the floor in my new bedroom, leaning back against two new pillows. Around me is empty tile. Out the French doors in my room, I can see our tiled balcony and the pink geraniums in the planter.
We have no furniture as of yet. Some of this is our fault–we haven’t decided on a couch yet. Some of this is due to the furniture store not delivering our beds as promised. We had to borrow mattresses from friends. We do have major appliances, including a new stove for me that I am very excited about. (We sold our old one; when moving internationally it is cheaper and often easier to just buy new. Not to mention, it is always fun to get new appliances)
We hope to have furniture soon. In the meantime, the kids crowd onto Elliot’s mattress to watch a movie on the laptop. Donn and I spend our afternoons wandering Rabat; buying tubing to connect the stove, deciding on a couch and dining room table, choosing an ironing board and a drying rack. My feet ache, but I’m content at nights as I snuggle down under a new comforter on my borrowed mattress. It has been a long time, but it’s happening at last–we are making a home here.
22 comments
March 5, 2009 at 3:28 pm
suz
Welcome Home! The flowers sound so nice~you will have to send pictures!
March 5, 2009 at 4:24 pm
js
Yes, it has been a long time in coming–a place to call home! I’m so happy for you!
Ishmael sounds like a piece of work; I’m anticipating lots of “Ishmael stories!”
March 5, 2009 at 4:24 pm
jean
“we are making a home here”, that says it all. I’m very happy for you guys. It’s been a long time coming.
March 5, 2009 at 5:20 pm
gretchen from lifenut
Congratulations on the new home and finally feeling more settled.
Ishmael sounds like a character.
March 5, 2009 at 6:09 pm
LIB
That sounds wonderful; I’m so happy for you! And I agree with js about Ishmael.
March 5, 2009 at 6:46 pm
LIB
That sounds wonderful; I’m so happy for you! And I agree with js about Ishmael.
Should mention excellent post. Looking forward to seeing the next one!
March 6, 2009 at 12:09 am
All Rileyed Up
Yay! Sounds like you’re settling right in to your new home. That store riot sounds crazy. It reminds me of this past Thanksgiving, or rather, the day after, when the Wal-Mart employee got trampled to death by the crowd of people trying to get inside.
March 6, 2009 at 3:37 am
Kelly @ Love Well
How long are you staying in Morocco? Have you ever said that?
I’m relieved you’ve found a home. There’s nothing like it.
March 6, 2009 at 6:04 am
Nora
It’s so important to have a home, isn’t it? So glad you are feeling settled.
March 6, 2009 at 6:40 am
serenanog
I love your writing. I’m glad you’re finally able to be settling in.
March 6, 2009 at 7:27 am
meredith
A new stove with more than 2 temperatures…yay 🙂
March 6, 2009 at 12:50 pm
Jeanne A
Congratulations on your new home. I’ll have to find a new book to celebrate!!!!
Are you going to be teaching at at university there?
March 6, 2009 at 3:34 pm
ladyfi
I love the sound of your lovely new landlord.
And here’s hoping you soon get settled into your new home.
March 6, 2009 at 5:55 pm
Laural Out Loud
Does your Carrefour have roller skaters like the ones in Brasil? It always makes me laugh when I see them.
Happy settling in!
March 6, 2009 at 7:43 pm
Mary Witzl
Over here at the other end of the Mediterranean, my feet hurt too and I think we’re getting the same wind, just as strong. And tomorrow, inshallah, we’re going to our very own Carrefour!
March 6, 2009 at 10:52 pm
LG
Hi Mary, hope you look back at this post…. Do you really have Carrefour in Turkey? I will be in Antalya later this year, do you suppose they have one there? Mrs. Nomad will tell you why those of us from Mauritania are so thrilled with Carrefour!
March 6, 2009 at 10:53 pm
LG
And we are getting the same wind, but for us, no rain, just lots of dust and sand. Like living in a white out in Northern Canada!
March 9, 2009 at 1:14 pm
Kim
Yay! Hopefully your beds will arrive soon…and you’ll be able to choose the couch you want…and the process of settling in at last will be accomplished in due time.
Have been in our house for five months and still don’t have a couch or dining table and chairs. Not real impressed with the quality of furniture we’ve found locally. Need to get to some nicer stores in the provincial capital I guess. Hubby’s getting ready to build bookshelves so we can finally unpack the books. We still have painting to do, floors to strip, other items to build or buy. But it is starting to feel like home. I want to go ahead and hang pictures because that says “home” to me more than a couch anyway. I simply want to be surrounded by my pictures and books 🙂
March 9, 2009 at 6:54 pm
Connie
We avoid the Carrefour in Cairo because it is too crazy and crowded. It is not worth the mobbing.
March 10, 2009 at 6:14 pm
Beck
I am closing my eyes – well, not while I’m typing – and imagining your life. It’s warm! There’s new appliances! And no couch!
SO JEALOUS.
March 11, 2009 at 3:39 pm
Nan
Isn’t that the first line in “Ishmael”? Can’t remember the author. Do I get a prize?
March 26, 2009 at 8:13 pm
angelina hart
i’m swooning over those lamps!!!! and yes, warmth sounds so nice right now as we’re still in sleet/snow weather here in berlin right now