On that fateful trip to Oulata where I was served goat turd along with goat intestine (both the inner and outer parts, as it were), we also saw wind-carved rock formations in fantastic shapes, an ancient city where finger-painted fertility symbols covered the walls of the houses, and a live crocodile sleeping just a few feet away from Elliot, who was excitedly calling and pointing at it. Fortunately it either didn’t wake up, or it was just as scared of us, etc.
It’s that time of year again—the desert is calling. After a week of unseasonably high temps (in the low 100s), we are (thankfully) back again to cold nights and hot afternoons. It’s the excitingly-named “Vacation of February.” So, in a literal cloud of dust but without a hearty heigh-ho Silver, we are loading up the tents and sleeping bags and mosquito repellent, packing an extra packet of coffee just in case, buying long-life cheese, baking cookies, and heading inland. We are planning to spend 2 nights near the crocodile pits and 2 in a dry riverbed near a city situated along an ancient caravan route.
The crocodiles are interesting indications that this vast desert is indeed man-made. Left behind in tiny pools when the grasslands receded, they have continued to survive over the centuries while surrounded by sands for hundreds of miles. I hope we see them but that they don’t come too near. I’m really not very brave; I have a morbid, over-active imagination.
Always, before a trip, something happens to keep you from forgetting that this world isn’t perfect. Usually, something happens with your plumbing or electricity. Last year, the electricity went out the night before, so we couldn’t pack and got a late start. One year, the water was out, so I had to leave for a week unshowered and with dirty dishes in the sink. (Do you have a pathological fear of boredom? This might be the place for you!) This year, it’s the plumbing. The whole city is having water problems—we haven’t had a full reservoir for over 2 weeks now, which means I’m behind on laundry and the garden’s going a bit brown. Tonight, a kid accidentally bumped an outdoor pipe which burst and starting spewing our last bit of water over the shells (not even the green part!). Donn’s spent all evening trying to fix it. Darn; can’t do dishes.
I’ll tell you all about it when we get back. In the meantime, you can read my first long post, detailing last year’s camping trip to Boumdaid and the Valley of the Barking Baboons, should you feel so inclined (i.e. bored).
I’ve never been to this part of Mauritania before, but Donn has twice gone on trips there while I stayed home to keep the kids in school. Here’s a picture he took of a man making tea in the dry river-bed near Rasheed, where we’ll camp after leaving the crocodiles.
9 comments
February 23, 2007 at 8:23 pm
Rebecca
Another fantastic post. You have an award/tag at my place….
February 24, 2007 at 1:28 am
Inkling
Can’t wait to hear about this vacation’s adventures (but I will skip anything that refers to intestines, thanks for the warning at the beginning of the previous post). Wonderful picture.
February 24, 2007 at 4:20 pm
Sandra
Hi, I just bumped in to this blogg and it´s so interesting to read.
I just have some questions, because my family and I are thinking about going abroad…About the food, can you get potatoes, not the sweet one. And how about beans and lentils? Especially the red lentils…
What about spices, do they have the northafrican spices or…
February 24, 2007 at 6:32 pm
Michelle
That’s a great photo–
My parents just found out they’ll be spending the next three years living in Bangalore India and are in a bit of culture shock. Andrew and I are wondering how it would be to take four kids half way around the world to visit. India is an adventure I’ve heard.
February 24, 2007 at 9:27 pm
Wacky Mommy
Tell Donn I love the photo — the objects in the foreground, the way the background looks, the look on the man’s face — it’s a great shot. Evocative and all that. (I can never describe art, other than saying something profound, like, “Wow.”)
Have a fun trip, bahy-bahy. We’re packing for Iowa. Turns out you can really accumulate a lot of, um, extremely valuable possessions (ha!) if you stay seven years in one place.
February 27, 2007 at 10:14 am
tinakala
Hi, first time visiting. A very interesting blog. But I have a question:if it`s so dry there, how do the crocs survive? Don`t they need lots of water or am I getting something wrong.
The photo of the old man is waiting to be awarded.
February 28, 2007 at 7:35 am
meredith
I am in awe of the drawings you saw in the canyon, did you take any photos of those?
February 28, 2007 at 7:40 am
meredith
I think I found my answer at Inklight photos…
February 28, 2007 at 1:49 pm
Kaye
Your posts are fascinating; and Donn’s photos superb too. looking forward to reading about your trip. Just stay clear of those crocs -they are fast movers!